Egyptians, Fasting, Denial

And I'm running behind with posts. The past week has been exhausting, to say the least. There's good news and bad news.

First the bad news: I've been denied entry to Gaza twice! First on Saturday and then again on Sunday. I've returned to Cairo in search of official approval and placed on the list of those the Egyptians will allow to enter Gaza. I should have tried for the approval before I got here but my brain scrambled what I should do, Tomorrow I will try to find the Egyptian Foreign Ministry and accomplishing that, I will try finding the appropriate person to put me on the approved list. Sounds easy but it isn't.

Now I will back track to the 24th, which seems like ages and ages ago. I traveled by Transbridge bus from Doylestown to the Port Authority Terminal in New York to JFK airport. I'd purchased new luggage for this trip; easy to navigate spinners with four wheels, in fact the large bag has eight wheels. They roll frontwards, backwards and sideways making it much easier to wheel your way around, especially down airplane or bus aisles.

My packing wasn't finished when I needed to leave for the bus so I threw things into my carry on and back pack, I carried them onto the bus and proceeded to pack properly. When we reached the PAT I decided not to rush and let everyone pass by me. As I gathered my belongings I put the carry-on in the aisle, getting it out of the way.As I was almost ready, I glanced over and watch it begin to roll down the aisle, not bumping into seats and gaining speed as it went. It crashed into the front of the bus, bounced back and made a right turn down the stairs. It hit the pavement up-right and on all fours wheels, then proceeded to try to catch the bus next to us. I couldn't believe it and the bus driver just rolled his eyes and shook his head. It would make a fantastic commercial.

The plane was two hours late leaving JFK and three hours late arriving in Cairo. It had been overbooked and was filled to capacity. My seatmate was an elderly (ha,ha) Egyptian man. It was obvious he wanted to talk and I was not the answer. I noticed another Egyptian man sitting across the aisle and up one seat...he kept trying to talk to the young American next to him. I asked him if he'd like to change seats which he was delighted to do, The two of them chatted, laughed and disagreed all the way across the Atlantic.

My new seat mate was an American in his mid 20s coming to study Arabic for two years at the American University in Cairo. Next to him was a Muslim woman maybe 30 years old who'd studied in the US and was returning to her home in Cairo. Both were interesting and a much better match for me than the talkative Egyptian.

Back to the taxi and Mohammad, The first thing on my agenda was to purchase a phone. Mohammad made a phone call and we drove into the city...the traffic is even wilder than I remember from last year. There are NO TRAFFIC LIGHTS. Everyone just beeps their horn and heads in the direction they want. Amazingly I haven't seen an accident and from what I've learned there aren't too many. The streets were filled with cars and people; all the shops were open and fancy restaurants had cars triple parked in front of them. This is what happens during Ramadan. During the day shops and restaurants are closed and at sundown everything opens and the carnival atmosphere begins.

Mohammad drove to an older area with apartments and shops. He pulled up in front of a building, got out of the car and began a serious conversation with a man who'd appeared carrying a small box. After a few minutes Mohammad reappeared with my new phone (and the box). Where the phone originated from I have no idea. I paid for it and low and behold the man with the box and phone was Mohammad's father and their apartment was in the building. I was invited to share Iftar with them and accepted.

Mohammad, his wife, son and parents live together. The apartment was modest...it would be difficult adjusting to the bathroom and kitchen; fortunately I don't have to. The meal consisted of a fantastic soup..more of a broth seasoned with bay leaf, whole cloves, cardamon and other spices I couldn't identify. I thanked the mother "explaining" how delicious it was; fishing out the bay leaf and cloves and saying their English name...wrong; they thought I didn't like it. Once I convinced them I loved it the mother pointed to her daughter in law, the chef. Salad was delicious. The mother insisted on giving me huge portions of everything...it was impossible to finish, which I should have done, but I was stuffed.

Next stop was the Cairo Center Hotel...built by the French and in need of rehabilitating. It's fine for me and inexpensive, even in Egyptian pounds. I'm paying $29 American a night. The staff is friendly, helpful and very accessible..by now the manager and I are good friends. It's located downtown in the center of the city, quiet day time and after sundown the fun begins!.

I believed I rested on Thursday and ran errands on Friday when everything is closed until after noon prayers. Oh now I remember, Thursday I visited the US Embassy to sign away my rights to counsel while I'm in Gaza. When I arrived at the Embassy I got at the end of a very long, very slow line. Finally it dawned on me it looked as though I was the only American in line. Ah Ha...there must be an American only entrance, which there was. The process went smoothly and I received my notarized  affidavit; at a cost of $50.

Since arriving I have been in contact with Mona in Gaza and Mohammad in Cairo. He's taken charge of me...he's a bit beyond a mother hen but that's OK, he's getting things done and keeping me on track. Also I have decided to fast as everyone is doing for Ramadan. That involves no food, cigarettes, sex or drink between sun-up and sun-down. I an not eating but am having one cup of coffee first thing in the morning and water throughout the day. This will be my fifth day! No one has expected me to do this; in fact everyone has assured me it isn't necessary, but for me, it's necessary to try and observe the fast out of respect for the people around me.

Saturday at 4:00 am we left for the Rafah Border Crossing, a drive of about five hours. Mohammad was to drive me but had his "brother-in-law" also called Mohammad take me. His English was very sparse but my Arabic is non existent so I shouldn't complain. It is a long ride. First crossing over the Suez Canal and then crossing the Sinai Desert. The canal was the only part of the trip I remember from 2009. I'm going to save the "crossing the desert" story for another post.

The Rafah Border Crossing....my anxiety level rose as we drew near. I was confident I'd be granted permission to cross into Gaza but wasn't at all sure of the process because last year Falice took care of all the details, god bless her...day by day I am more appreciative of what she did for our group.
  
There is a large rather ornate gate that contains the actual entrance (the first step) with a small box/room/house for the head man and them various gates  for exit and entrance. Next to the gate is a small shop selling snacks and money cards for cell phones. Most important is a very large tree offering shade! It has lots of plastic chairs, which are in constant use. There were three women, covered except for their eyes, sitting on blankets. selling dates and almonds. Their donkey carts were placed along the road and the donkeys tethered near by. The only time I have seen anyone run in Egypt involved one of the women. She took off racing across the desert trying to catch her donkey who'd escaped. Her black robes were flying in the wind.

I went right away to the window and presented my papers: the notarized paper from the US Embassy and my letter of invitation from UNRAW. The man with the power was unfriendly, frowned at the papers and motioned for me to go away. I headed for the shade under the big tree but wasn't sure where to sit. I decided to take a chair, move it a bit away from the men but remain in the shade. This was met with no trouble. Periodically I would walk over to "the man" to inquire about my papers and entrance. I'd be told not yet and waved away. The third time I rose to walk to the window the men became my buddies giving me thumbs up and big smiles...when I returned they also expressed encouragement. This went on for hours until finally "the man"  said telephoning the embassy, go, go sit in the shade come back 10 minutes, then 15 minutes and so on. Finally I asked to use the phone and call myself (using mostly hand signs) No, no no outside only inside. Which meant the phone was not capable of making outside calls. I was not happy! You have not called the embassy all this time. You haven't told the truth. No speak English...go. When I returned to inquire one more time he said No, No and handed me my papers. Why? No English. I was not a happy camper but my buddies under the tree continued to smile and encourage me. It did help. I hope they know how much I appreciated and needed their support...it was an unexpected blessing.

It was decided I would stay in the near-by seaside town of Al Arish and I'd try again on Sunday....stay tuned for the next installment. I hope to write that this afternoon.



.